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    I enjoy watching the television shows about mining in Alaska…. May I say they are nothing like this video shows about mining in the 60s. I know that I have said on some of these videos that my back aches watching people work so hard…. When I watched this one, I not only thought that […]
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postheadericon Life Cycle of a Flea

         This information is from A PDF from DirtWorks

•Fleas pass through a complete life cycle of four stages.

 

•The flea population is typically made up of 50% eggs,

•30% larvae, 15% pupae  and only 5% biting adults.

            • Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks to eight months.

 

•Normally the female flea lays about 15 to 20 eggs per day up to 600 in a lifetime.

 

•Usual hosts for fleas are dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, mice, squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, opossums, foxes, chickens, and humans.

 

            •Eggs loosely laid in the hair or fur, drop out where the pet rests, sleeps or nests (rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, kennels, sand boxes, etc.)

 

            •Eggs hatch in two days to two weeks into larvae found indoors in floor cracks & crevices, along baseboards, under rug edges and in furniture or beds.

 

•Sand and gravel are very suitable for flea development which is the reason fleas are erroneously called “sand fleas.”

•Using lattice or other physical boundaries can seal off these areas but, you may need to provide a substitute area for the animals to hang out in because, under the porch or shed is a nice cool place to spend time if you’re a dog or cat on a hot day.

            •Outdoor development occurs in sandy gravel soils (moist sand boxes, dirt crawl space under the house, under shrubs, etc.) where the pet may rest or sleep.

 

            •Larvae are blind, avoid light, pass through three larval stages and take a week to several months to develop.

 

            •Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea feces, dead skin, hair, feathers, and other organic debris. (Larvae do not suck blood.)

 

            •Pupa mature to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larva to which pet hair, carpet fiber, dust, grass cuttings, and other debris adheres.

 

•In about five to fourteen days, adult fleas can emerge or may remain resting in the cocoon until the detection of vibration (pet and people movement), pressure (host animal lying down on them), heat, noise, or carbon dioxide (meaning a potential blood source is near).

 

•Most fleas survive the winter in the larval or pupa stage and grow best during warm, moist winters and spring.

•Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may hibernate from two months to one year without feeding.

 

           

One big surprise people get is when they return from vacation and they find themselves with a major flea problem in the house. 

   There is often a desperate need for flea control after a family has returned from a long vacation. The house has been empty with no cat or dog around for fleas to feed on. When the family and pets are gone, flea eggs hatch and larvae pupate. The adult fleas fully developed inside the pupa cocoon remains in a kind of “limbo” for a long time until a blood source is near. The family returning from vacation is immediately attacked by waiting hungry hordes of fleas. (In just 30 days, 10 female fleas under ideal conditions can multiply to over a quarter million different life stages.)

 

•Completely developed adult fleas can live for several months without eating, as long as they do not emerge from their cocoons.

            •Newly emerged adult fleas live only about one week if a blood meal is not obtained.

 

•Optimum temperatures for the flea’s life cycle are 70°F to 85°F and optimum humidity is 70 percent.

 

 

For a complete, nontoxic treatment that will protect you and your pets and livestock from fleas and ticks over the long term, use Perma-Guard Diatomaceous Earth.  It kills fleas mechanically, so the pests can’t become immune to it, like they have become immune to most of the synthetic chemical treatments you get at the vet or pet store.  The pure form of Diatomaceous Earth is Fossil Shell flour.  It’s safe enough to eat and is used to treat silos for the storage of grain used in the food we all eat.

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